INDIA HAS ALWAYS INTRIGUED FOREIGNERS. Back in the fourth century B.C., Alexander the Great's men were amazed by elephants. Later, William Shakespeare (1564-1616), who never visited India, alluded to its exotic trading wealth in his play A Midsummer Night's Dream. More recently, in 1897, the well-travelled writer Mark Twain called India "... the one land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that glimpse for the shows of all the rest of the globe combined." Today, India continues to fascinate with equal force, all the more so because much of life here is lived in public.